Leaky Faucets: Fix It Before Move-Out or Report It First
A dripping faucet left unaddressed at move-out can result in a maintenance charge deducted from your deposit, even if the drip was caused by normal wear on the washers or cartridge rather than anything you did wrong. In many states, a renter who fails to report a maintenance issue in a timely manner bears some responsibility for resulting damage or costs. If your faucet has been dripping, address it before your move-out inspection either by fixing it yourself or by submitting a written maintenance request to your landlord.


Understanding What Causes a Faucet to Drip
Most faucet drips are caused by worn washers, O-rings, or cartridges inside the valve. In a compression faucet (older two-handle style), a rubber washer at the end of the stem wears down and no longer seals properly against the valve seat. In a cartridge faucet (common in modern apartments), the entire cartridge assembly wears and needs replacement. In a ball faucet, springs and seats inside the ball mechanism fail over time. Each type requires a slightly different repair approach, but all are well-documented and can be completed with basic tools.
Should You Fix It or Report It?
Check your lease. Many leases require tenants to report maintenance issues and specify that repairs beyond normal wear are handled by the landlord. If your lease indicates the landlord is responsible for plumbing repairs, submit a written maintenance request immediately. This documents the issue and shifts responsibility to the landlord. If the issue was not reported and the drip has caused water damage or mineral buildup, having that written record protects you.
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See the Checklist →Basic Faucet Repair Steps
If you choose to fix the faucet yourself, start by turning off the water supply at the shutoff valve under the sink. Turn on the faucet handle to release pressure and drain any remaining water. Disassemble the handle by removing the decorative cap and the handle screw. Remove the packing nut and stem to access the washer or cartridge inside. Replace the worn washer, O-ring, or cartridge with a matching replacement part. Reassemble in reverse order, turn the water back on, and test.
Replacement Parts
Take the old washer or cartridge to the hardware store to match it correctly, or photograph the faucet brand and model number (often printed on the faucet body near the base) before ordering a replacement online. Using the wrong size part is the most common reason a faucet repair fails to stop the drip.
Find faucet repair kits and replacement cartridges: faucet repair supplies on Amazon.
More help: Appliances and Plumbing guides
Mechanical Ways to Clear a Drain Without Chemicals
Chemical drain cleaners are tempting because they promise a hands-off fix, but in a rental they are a poor choice: the harsh chemistry can corrode older pipes, damage the finish on fixtures, and sit in a standing clog doing nothing useful while creating a hazard for the next person who works on the drain. Mechanical methods clear the same clogs more reliably and without risking damage you could be charged for.
For a slow or stopped sink, start by removing and cleaning the visible obstruction. In a bathroom sink, the clog is often a wad of hair caught on the pop-up stopper; lift or unscrew the stopper, pull out the gunk, and you have solved most of the problem. A flexible plastic drain-cleaning strip with barbed edges, slid down the drain and pulled back up, snags hair and debris from deeper in the pipe without any chemicals at all.
A plunger is the next tool, and technique matters. For a sink, block the overflow opening with a wet rag so your plunges build pressure in the pipe rather than venting out, then plunge firmly several times over a sealed drain. For a double sink, seal the other side too. The pressure waves break up and push through soft clogs that strips cannot reach, and a cup of very hot water afterward helps flush the loosened debris away.
When a clog sits past the trap, the curved pipe under the sink, you can often clear it by placing a bucket underneath and unscrewing the trap by hand or with channel-lock pliers to remove and clean it directly. For tougher blockages, a hand-crank drain snake feeds a flexible cable into the pipe to break through or pull out the obstruction. A simple homemade flush of baking soda followed by vinegar, left to fizz and then rinsed with hot water, freshens a sluggish drain and is a gentle maintenance habit, though it works best on minor buildup rather than a full clog.
Clear the Clog Without Harsh Chemicals
Chemical drain openers are tempting but risky in a rental, because they can damage older pipes and you may be liable for the harm. Mechanical methods clear most clogs without that danger. Start with a plunger to build pressure, or feed a drain snake or even a straightened wire hanger down to hook and pull out the blockage.
For a slow drain rather than a full stop, a baking-soda-and-vinegar treatment followed by a kettle of hot water often breaks up grease and soap buildup. These approaches protect the plumbing you do not own, and keeping a drain clear avoids the standing-water marks and odors that read poorly during a move-out inspection.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I unclog a drain without chemicals?
A plunger or drain snake, or baking soda and vinegar with hot water, usually works.
Why avoid chemical cleaners?
They can damage older pipes and are harsh in enclosed rentals.
What if it stays clogged?
Persistent clogs may be deeper and worth reporting to maintenance.
Related reading
- How to Fix Scuffed and Scratched Rental Floors Without Losing Your Deposit
- How to Fix Squeaky Floors in a Rental Without Lifting Boards
- How to Deep Clean Carpet in a Rental Without a Machine
- How to Fix a Running Toilet in Your Rental (No Plumber, No Drama)
Further reading
A few reputable resources that back up the steps above:
- HUD — Rental Assistance & Tenant Rights — Tenant rights and rental-assistance guidance by state
- EPA WaterSense — Water-efficient faucets, showerheads and fixtures
